Tacking Strategy: When to Tack and When to Hold
A tack costs roughly two boat lengths. That cost has to be worth it.
When to tack, when to hold
Tacking costs boat lengths — typically 1 to 2 lengths of lost distance per tack, depending on boat and conditions. Every tack must earn back what it costs. Tacking on every wind shift sounds smart but adds up to a long way lost.
Tack on big shifts, hold on small ones
A persistent header of 10° or more is worth tacking on. A 3° wiggle is not. In oscillating wind, time the shifts: tack when a header is established and likely to last 30 seconds or more.
Tack to clear air
If a boat tacks just upwind of you and is about to dump dirty air on your sails, tack immediately even without a wind shift. Two boat lengths lost to a tack is cheaper than two minutes sailing in dirty air.
Tack on the layline only at the end
Tacking on the layline early in the leg locks you into a single side and forfeits flexibility. Wait until you are within 5–10 boat lengths of the mark before tacking onto the layline.
Tactical tacks
- Lee-bow tack — Tack just to leeward and ahead of a competitor, putting bad air on their sails.
- Cover — Tack on top of a boat behind you to keep them in your bad air.
- Loose cover — Mirror their tacks without sitting directly on top of them.
Takeaways
- Every tack costs distance; make each one count.
- Tack on big shifts and to escape dirty air.
- Use the layline last, not first.
Frequently asked questions
- How much does a tack cost?
- On a typical dinghy or keelboat, one to two boat lengths. Heavier boats and rough water cost more; light dinghies in flat water cost less.
- What's a lee-bow tack?
- A tack that puts you just to leeward and ahead of another boat. Your sails dump dirty air directly onto their sails, forcing them to tack away.